Veering in new directions

Hi Folks!

It's been a while since my last post, and a LOT has happened!

First of all, I'm back in the United States.  Fulbrighting in Switzerland was fantastic, but a girl can only live on the side of a mountain for so long, before the money runs out!!  So, I moved back, and began a Ph.D. program in Pittsburgh.  Before that, though, I did manage to finish Particle Play, thanks to friends in Maine for generously leaving for a long vacation and letting me housesit (and write!!), and friends in New Hampshire, who helped to organize a reading of one of the latest versions of the script.  This semester, I've been collaborating with the incomparable composer Todd Tagliaferro, who has been putting music to some of the lyrics for the script.  Now, I'm sending it off to festivals and playwriting competitions.  So, if you happen to know of a place that is seeking puppet musicals about particle physics, let me know.

OR, if you happen to BE a producer seeking puppet musicals about particle physics, please send me an email!

In the meantime, I am continuing to explore related issues in performance and criticism.  I'm developing some themes and one character from the play and developing a shorter one woman show.  It's still in its early phases, but I just had a public sharing of this work in progress at the Henry Heymann Theatre at the University of Pittsburgh.  Here are some photos:

Ultra High Energy Cosmic Ray Detectors

Center

11-D Fermilab

Did I mention that I took a field trip to Fermilab this semester?  Hopefully it's the first of many:

Me at Fermilab

And, of course, the quarks are still in the picture...

Bodies in Space!

I think the sharing went well.  It was wonderful to have people come and talk about ideas, walk through my research, add to the giant chalkboard, and enjoy turkey sandwiches.

For now, my head is exploding in 11 dimensions!  I have a lot of writing to do (it's the end of the semester) and a lot of "dark matter" of my own to work through.  I'll keep you posted on the particulars as they develop.  Until then...

Nostalgia

I'm starting to feel like a hardened and weary ex-pat.  Not that I don't love my cute little Swiss apartment (where the lights turn off and on all on their own), I do!  And Intragna, albeit on the shadowy side of the mountain, is still as charming as ever.  No.  It's that I now find myself nostalgic for 'the way things used to be,'  when I first moved to Switzerland.

That's how I felt, a couple of days ago, when I walked down the hill to the stazione, expecting to find a familiar  FART ticket machine:

Old-school FART bigletti machina

Only to find this!

New-fangled FART ticket machine

Do you see the important difference here??????  What is the world coming to?  And it doesn't take bills.  Only coins and cards.  Which is actually kind of a pain!

At least Switzerland still has:

Wild Strawberries

Which make me feel just a little bit like Heidi.  Didn't she feast on them with fresh goat milk on the mountain with her grandfather?  I finally spotted some goats a couple weeks ago, clinging to the edge of the mountain as my train whizzed past them.  Too fast to catch a picture.

I did, however, remember to take my camera with me on a little walk back to what I now refer to as the Witch Cabin.  Who else could possibly live in such an enchanting place?

Witch Cabin

Spring just keeps coming.

The Quarks agree.

Ancient Stuff (and more food)

There's nothing like keeping a blog to make a person feel like things are spiraling out of control!  I've just spent the last two days workshopping my play, which went well!  The only problem with workshopping something and trying to document it at the same time is that it's hard to think and take pictures all at once.  I did get some photos, I think, and I will post them eventually.  Today, however, I want to share some photos of Ancient Roman Theatre sites, mostly for my own viewing pleasure.

Theatre site in Ancient Roman Aventicum



I have been able to do a  bit of traveling, mostly for research purposes, but also for fun. Generally I drag my traveling companions along with me for side trips to theatre and performance-related excursions.  For instance, the Alpers just took a tour of the puppet museum in Munich with me.  No pictures allowed in there, but it was very thorough and had a lot of puppets as well as whole puppet theatres.  And the kids enjoyed it, too, as long as we kept them out of the wax museum/grand guignol/death mask room and didn't let them get too lost in the abstract expressionist toy theatre  movie, which made the 2 year old just about start to cry, until she saw the Punch and Judy video (which is actually really violent), which both the kids loved.  Go figure.

While there weren't any ancient theatre sites that I was able to see while in Munich (I'm sure they exist, but I had a limited amount of time), I did get to sample some of what they do have in abundance at this time of year:

Spargels!

And spargel season is just beginning!  They were just as good as the vegetable that was (and probably still is) in season in Rome when I was there a couple of weeks ago:

Artichoke!

These were delicious served marinated and steamed or marinated and fried.  We had to sample each variety multiple times to make sure that they were both equally good!

But I came here to talk about theatre, as well as the food.

I recently read The Hunger Games, which is a sort of post-apocalyptic gladiator story, so amphitheatres have been on my mind.  We saw one interesting Roman amphitheatre outside of Basel, but my camera batteries had died by that point.  Good thing I went to Rome so I could see the:

Colosseum!

Which was very exciting, because you could see the labyrinth that was underneath the floor.

In this picture, not only can you see the labyrinth, but you can also see the part of the floor that is currently being reconstructed.

It was just as interesting to see ancient theatre sites that were  not smack in the middle of Rome, which is so cram packed with ancient things I can't even begin to decide which pictures to post! 

For instance,

An obscure fountain grotesque,

OR

Trevi Fountain

OR

An ancient Roman theatre (in Rome) that is now being converted into condos

?

Speaking of Ancient Roman theatre sites, we did make it out to Ostia Antica, which has a very impressive ancient theatre site,



Theatre from the temple grounds.  It's missing the third tier of seating.

As well as a lot of cool mosaics:

Double fish mosaic in the marketplace, also in the center of the city, along with the temple and theatre ruins.

Although the ancient sites in and around Rome were impressive, I thought that the remains of Roman cities in Northern Switzerland were just as interesting.  Perhaps it is because they are in varying states of ruin/reconstruction, so you can see a sort of archaeological history at work (for more information about that, go visit Doug's History Equals Place blog).  Also, the city ruins in Switzerland, unlike Ostia Antica (which is the remains of an entire city preserved because it was completely submerged in river silt for hundreds of years), sprout up amidst the contemporary cities and farm landscape.  Which is certainly true of Rome, as well, but was unexpected for me in Switzerland:

Medieval castle rising over amphitheatre seats in Avenches, Switzerland

Also, I really liked the way that the remains in Roman Aventicum (in and around Avenches) just looked so perfectly like the diagrams I draw on the chalkboard in my theatre history classes. It's just like in the history books - AMAZING!

Just heard a lot of thunder rumbling outside.  Guess it's a sign to get off the computer for tonight.  Especially considering that I think I've finaly completely fried the kitchen wiring (no lights in the kitchen since last Thursday - a good thing the days are getting longer...).



The Magical Mystery of Intragna, and M-Theory!

Today I went on the most beautiful hike I've been on since my arrival in Switzerland.  I hiked up a familiar path towards Pila, then turned left instead of heading back the same way.  It's spring.  The sun is warmer a little higher up and out of Intragna.  Lilacs are in full bloom, bees are buzzing, lizards are leaping.  It's absolutely gorgeous!  AND, I found the most picturesque bridge ever built, nestled in a crevice where three paths and a few waterfalls meet.  It's the one on all of the postcards.  Some lucky family has a cottage in the sunny bit, waterfall behind, stream beside, bridge across the water, complete with a water wheel and a kitchen garden.  They must be a very fit family, since the closest place to park a car is about a 45 minute hike down, or up, depending on your perspective (although I did notice a special funiculare fairly close by that seemed to be devoted to hauling stuff rather than people).  And, of course, I forgot my camera.  So I guess I'll have to go back!

I do have a few pictures of my work in progress masks and puppets that were included in the Dimitri School's recent symposium, Commedia dell'Arte:  Old Traditions/New Horizons?  It was a great way for me to assemble some of the physical pieces of my work on 'Particle Play'.  One curious observer who read all of the signs while I was putting the piece up the night before the Symposium noted, "It's a little bit crazy, isn't it?"  My only response is, yes!  String theory (or really M-Theory, which unites 5 different versions of String Theory) and a lot of theoretical physics IS a little bit crazy.  Or at least I think so.  And almost all of it is still very theoretical, which is why we don't learn about the Standard Model in high school physics, according to Kristina Yancey, another Fulbrighter here in Switzerland.  But it's interesting and exciting territory to explore.

Other presenters at the symposium included Richard Weihe, who had some interesting things to say about the evolution of the Arlecchino figure in German theatrical traditions and the subsequent demise of masked theatre 'North of the Alps;'  Etienne Champion shared his wooden masks, my favorite was a simple wooden clown nose - for some reason so much more appealing than plastic or latex; Alessandro Marchetti performed his La Maschera e il Volto; and the masters students from the Dimitri School performed the final performance of Anfitrione Divorato, which has been in development all year.

Although 'Particle Play' is not at all related to the Commedia dell'Arte, my training has certainly incorporated elements of the form, and masks are an important aspect of the piece.  We figured that it would be a good way to share some of my work and to spark interest in my upcoming workshop.

Warning!  You are about to enter a Planck Space!  Please put on a pair of Dante's 11-D glasses to help you adjust.

A quark in its bucket

Irregular masks

I did have a lot of fun helping people pick out the right pair of glasses, which is funny, since my dad is an optometrist.  Often, people found that the first pair didn't quite fit.  I found myself handing them another pair, saying, "Here, how does this pair work?"  The response was generally, "Better!" 

What do your 11-Dimensional Glasses reveal?

Later that day...

Monday at Fasnacht is a very long day, since it starts at about 2:30 AM.  Even with a mid-morning nap between parade courses, we were completely exhausted by the time we made it back to what we affectionately referred to as our 'pit' at the hostel (what else can you call a hostel dorm room with 12 stinky sleeping people in it?) at the end of the day.  It was a nice pit, and our lovely innkeeper gave us a great discount, so I'm not complaining!

But about Monday afternoon!  The parades started again at 13:30!  These sort of resembled the Guggemusik (good musicians playing badly) bands of the Bellinzona Rabadan, except not at all.  Because these groups, like the fife and drum cliques from the wee hours of the morning, also had satirical themes which were demonstrated by their costumes, masks, and floats from which the Waggis (a traditional Fasnacht character) threw confetti, fruit, and flowers.

This Waggis wanted to give me a flower, but I was too busy taking his picture so I missed his float.  There's a metaphor for my life somewhere in that sentence...

The guggemusik bands were really exciting after an early morning full of piccolo playing (which was also really exciting).  I liked the guggemusik masks because they had holes built in where you could put your horn! 

Guggemusik marching band!

But just because there were guggemusik groups out there doesn't mean that the fifes and drums went away.  Really, for three days, around every corner were more piccolos!  As the days progressed, and more of the 'wild' groups came out, the meetings of piccolo/guggemusik groups became more and more frequent.  There would often be two groups walking in opposite directions, towards one another on the street.  Neither group would ever back down, but they kept marching onwards.  I'm surprised more piccolo vs. trombone fistfights don't sprout up.

Waggis throwing confetti from a wagon



In addition to Waggis on wagons, there were some wild ones, running around throughout Fasnacht.  Their job is to stuff confetti down your shirt/jacket/scarf/whatever if you are not wearing your blaggedde:

Fasnacht badge

The blaggedde is basically your ticket to Fasnacht.  Proceeds from the sales of these pins help the official cliques organize for next year's celebration.  As far as the wild waggis chasing un-blaggedded people around, I think that's just an excuse.  Seemed like a lot of people wearing their pins were accosted as well!

I was surprised that entire cliques would just leave their masks, lanterns, and gear out on the street while they were taking breaks in bars and restaurants.  It wasn't uncommon to see a whole group's masks just lined up, apparently unattended throughout the day.

Masks and drums taking a break

The political commentary of this festival is not limited to the lanterns, which are impressive.  Throughout the days, many politically-themed cliques roamed the streets.  Also, the tradition of Schnitzelbanggling takes place most evenings of the festival at private parties.  We caught a glimpse of some unofficial Schnitzelbangglers on Sunday evening (before anything was supposed to be happening!) and I'm glad we did.  Although we searched, we couldn't find any on the evenings they were supposed to be happening.  Not that we would have understood much anyway.  The commentary is sung entirely in Swiss German by a masked singer, accompanied by illustrated placards.  Mostly it's local politics that are up for grabs, but, as with the lanterns, global events and issues also make it into the year in review.

Parody of a parody - a 'Schnitzelbanggler' marches in the Guggemusik parade.

A float featuring BP workers instead of Waggis handing out flowers

Marching Miners

And it wouldn't be Fasnacht without a few traditionally masked piccolo players...

That's all for now... More soon!

Morgenstreich!

I think the best way to describe Fasnacht is to simply describe the events in the order that they happen, or are supposed to happen.  Soooooo.......  That leaves me at the beginning with the Morgenstreich (morning strike).  Fasnacht in Basel begins at precisely at 4:00 AM on the Monday morning following Ash Wednesday.  I was staying in a hostel a bit of a walk away from the old city center.  After going to sleep around 10:00 PM on Sunday, I set my alarm for 2:30, although I really didn't sleep much at all.  Woke up, got dressed, and walked down to find a good spot on the crowded streets close to the center, but not directly in the center of the Marketplatz or any of the other main squares.

The street lights and shop lights were all on, and the cliques and 'wild' groups prepared for the march.  At 4:00 on the dot, all the lights in the entire city went completely dark.  I had a small moment of panic since I was in the middle of crossing the street to get a better view.   But after a few seconds, the lanterns came on and the piccolo playing commenced (it was not to stop until 4:00 AM on Thursday morning when the carnival came to its official end).

The rest of the morning was filled with official cliques processing around an prescribed path through the city on both sides of the Rhein, and the 'wild' groups marching (and also playing piccolo, accompanied by drums) on the streets in between.  During the Morgenstreich, all participants wore masks with lanterns attached on their heads.  Some groups also carried smaller lanterns on poles or on backpacks.  Each group also had a giant lantern decorated with scenes depicting political themes ranging from the local to the global.  Not living in Basel and also speaking neither German nor Swiss German, I know I missed a lot of the political commentary.  Even so, I was able to pick up on a few of the critiques.  Among the themes I thought I understood for 2011 Fasnacht were:

• The Gulf Oil Spill and a critique of BP
• Something about gambling and casinos in Switzerland
• The financial disaster in Greece
• Child abuse in the Church
• Some kind of statement about the police in Switzerland
• And more...

Here are some pictures!

Clique's lanterns on poles

A 'wild' bunch marching with lanterns and masks

Toxic baby formula lantern

This is the giant lantern from a group dedicated to the Gulf Oil Spill.  The front of this lantern had a big pelican on it.

Pelican -shaped lantern hats following the giant lantern

At about 6:30 AM, my friend and I decided that it was time to have the traditional feast of Fasnacht, mehlsuppe and waihe (flour soup and onion tarts).  We found a restaurant that was serving them.  It was interesting that there were many restaurants actually open throughout the early morning, but their windows were completely covered, so that the light wouldn't interfere with the procession.  Coincidentally, that is also why many of the lantern photos are blurry - no flash photography allowed because it can disorient the masked, marching piccolo players.

Mehlsuppe!

An onion tart from the vendor at the Munsterplatz

When we finished our breakfast (what else do you call a meal eaten at 6:30 after being up since 2?), we emerged from the restaurant to find that the sun was rising.  But the groups were still marching and the fife and drums were still playing, and the lanterns were still lit, even in the early morning light.

Wild clique marching over the Rhein at dawn

Another wild clique processing over the Rhein in the early morning.

At about 8 we decided to head back to the hostel to try to get a little nap in before the afternoon festivities got going.  Things seemed to be settiling down, but that may have been a misconception on my part.  Throughout all of Fasnacht, just as I thought the processions must be winding down, another giant clique would come around the corner and the carnival spirit just kept on playing - to the tune of 'Dixie', I might add.  Also heard a lot of the 'Battle Hymn of the Republic'.  There were other piccolo tunes playing throughout the week, but these were the two I recognized.  Maybe 'Dixie' was chosen as a part of a general theme for the Southern United States and Louisiana suffering from the oil spill?  Maybe 'Battle Hymn of the Republic' was playing because of the unrest 'On the shores of Tripoli'?  The uprisings in Libya and Egypt and the disaster in Japan were too recent to make it into the lanterns.  Perhaps the music was pointing at current events of the week.  

We took our nap, and made it back for the Guggemusik bands in the afternoon.  More on that next time!

Morgenstreich!

Zopf!

Yes, I just got back from Basel and Fasnacht.  And I am in the midst of sorting through a TON of photos.  Soon to be posted.  But, before the mehlsuppe and guggemusik, there was Zopf!  On my way (or as close to on one's way one can be outside of St. Gallen en route from Ticino to Basel) to Fasnacht, I stopped for a visit with my friend Mark and his family.  It was a Saturday and so, they were making Zopf.

Zopf is a traditional Swiss bread that is made on Saturday night to be eaten on Sunday morning.  It's a braided white bread with a generous egg wash that looks an awful lot like a challah.  The bread was rising when I arrived, so we split it four ways and each took a bit of dough to braid mini-zopfs:

My Zopf

Finished mini-zopfs

I think it was a remarkable act of restraint not to eat the zopfs hot out of the oven.  But I guess they are destined to be Sunday morning food.  They were quite tasty.  I had Appenzellerland cheese on some (delicious - I cannot get enough of that stuff) and nutella on others (ditto!).

While I was visiting Schwellbrunn, I learned about another Fasnacht celebration.  Apparently most of the Protestant Swiss carnivals are called Fasnacht (from the German Fasching), even though they all vary greatly depending on the region.  And, they tend to take place the week after Ash Wednesday instead of before, as is the case with Carnivale celebrations in Catholic regions of the world.  In Schwellbrunn there is a day for kids to dress up and walk in a parade, but the main event is a procession in which the teenagers of the village carry a big log (I think maybe a whole tree) in a wagon around the tiny villages and then back to the center of Schwellbrunn.  The teenagers are dressed as traditional craftspeople and one wears a bear costume while the younger boys dress as clowns and ask for money.  Once they get the log back to Schwellbrunn, they auction it off to the highest bidder.  I'm not sure what happens to the log or to the money raised during the ceremony.  Sadly, there are no photos to document this procession.  Next time!